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Pane di Santuario -- Personal Recollections
Originated from: Pallo del Colle (near Bari), Pulgia, Italy
Occasion: Feast Day of a Favored Saint
Contributed by: Girolamo (Gerry) Vessia

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Ingredients




Directions




Notes

In my hometown of Pallo del Colle, Pulgia many people marked one special day in the year as the day when they would offer "il pane di Santuario" ("Santuary bread") to designated guests in order to honor a favored saint such as St. Joseph or St. Anthony. Every household celebrated "il santuario" at a different time of the year; the celebration was not done on the favored saint's name day. On the contrary, each household decided what day they would mark the occasion. Often, if someone was coming from out of town, then they would use that day to do the ritual. While the day to do "il santuario" could change from year to year, the special guests who were given "il pane di Santuario" were supposed to be always the same. In fact, families often inherited the guest list (usually four or five people) from their parents. The guest list could include family members, friends or neighbors. The bread was not offered to them because they were poor but simply because they had been "designated" at one point as The ones to receive "il pane di Santuario." Most people bought the bread at the local bakery; the bread was round-shaped and braided. It was not sweet. On the morning the ritual (il santuario) was to take place the local parish priest who had previously been told of the event came to bless the bread. The priest was offered in return for services rendered bread (but not the pane di Santuario -- that was only given to the designated guests!). They were also offered "cece a la rena" (chickpeas cooked in sand). Some priests took the food offerings, others declined. In any case, the four or five designated guests who had been invited to partake in "il santuario" came and shared the blessed bread and "cece a la rena" with their host and hostess. The guests stayed for about half an hour and then they left. Each guest was given as a parting gift a loaf of "il pane di Santuario" and an orange. However, later on in the afternoon, they would return to celebrate some more. Along with the designated guests other visitors came as well. Everyone who dropped by was offered "cece a la rena" to snack on. "Cece a la rena" (chickpeas made with sand) may not sound appetizing but in fact they are. Chickpeas mixed in sand and cooked over a slow fire in a frying pan have a very nice flavor. Unlike chickpeas that are cooked in oil they do not burn. They retain their white coloring. Obviously, prior to serving the chickpeas the sand is removed (using a sieve). Along with the chickpeas, visitors who dropped by were also offered drinks -- home-made liqueurs. Some liqueurs were made with anise others with lemon. Generally speaking, visitors who dropped by to celebrate "il santuario" stayed for half an hour or so and then left. As parting gifts the visitors were given smaller versions of the braided "pane di Santuario." These smaller loaves were called "pagniocta." Prior to World War II many households carried out the "santuario" ritual and everyone enjoyed it as it gave people yet another chance to get together and share some good food..... Image ID: The New York Public Library, Digital Gallery #1586948.

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