Technically, Carnival takes place 40 days before Easter Sunday, but as the date of Easter Sunday changes each year, so does Carnival. However, many places in Italy celebrate it on the same day of the year, regardless of when Easter Sunday takes place. For example, in Casacalenda, Molise the celebrations always take place on January 17th, but in other areas of the South, the date might be different. Actually, Carnival is not one day -- but a period of days -- between Thursday and Shrove Tuesday, though the major celebrations are set for the last day of celebrations which always take place the day before Ash Wednesday when the "fasting" or giving up of certain special foods (in particular, meat) for Lent take place. Prior to World War II, those Italians who could afford it prepared fancy dishes for Carnival so that they could better cope with Lent -- a period when they weren't supposed to prepare any elaborate dishes (An exception was made for the Feast Day of Saint Joseph when banquets were the norm -- though, of course, the foods served for these banquets were all vegetarian, as meat was perceived as being too good a thing and therefore to be avoided). In any case, prior to World War II most Italians, including those in the countryside, participated in the local Carnival festivities. Back then Carnival was equivalent to North America's Halloween -- children dressed up in colorful costumes and went "trick or treating." They'd be given treats, but not candies or chocolate bars as they are given nowadays. At that time kids were given dried fruits and/or slices of air-dried meats. After the "trick or treating" children often attended parties where adults were also present, many of whom were dressed up in costumes. Sweet fritters were made in abundance and offered as desserts. According to food historians "sweet fritters" were popular because they were cheap to make. In fact, they're sometimes referred to as poor people's food. Still, prior to World War II, anything that had eggs and/or sugar in it, was considered special fare, as these ingredients cost a fair amount. In any case, after World War II, those Italians who immigrated to North America, couldn't help notice that North Americans (except for those in New Orleans perhaps) did not make much of Carnival, so they too abandoned their attachment to it. It wasn't until the late 1980s when world-wide festivities for Carnival became more newsworthy that North Americans of Italian origin started to take note of Carnival festivities. At this time many Italian halls started to throw Venetian-style costume parties and many young people went to them. Nonetheless, few (if any) first generation Italians returned to making the traditional fried Carnival fritters that they had made when they were living "in the old country" and as for the second generation (including myself) most had no knowledge of the food traditions that went with Carnival, so they, of course, did not continue any of those traditions. Food historians on the world-wide web indicate that Italians have been celebrating Carnival for centuries by making bugie, galani, chiacchiere, cenci, crostoli and frappe, frittole and zeppole. The names vary from region to region (For a list of sweet fritters by region, see the category "XXX Lists of Desserts by Alphabetical Order and Region"). Some of the sweet fritters are made with yeast dough, others with pastry dough. Food historians believe the tradition of preparing fried balls sweetened with sugar or honey for Carnival festivities is centuries-old. In fact it might date back to ancient Rome; in the first century Bacchus, the pagan God of wine and merriment, was honored by drinking wine and frying special sweets. Nowadays, of course, Carnival is more about dressing up and wearing lavish costumes and going out to restaurants that serve international dishes then eating traditional regional sweet fritters. Still, everyone has a good time, and that's what life is all about (Well, sometimes anyway).

For various Carnival fritter recipes see Italy Revisited/Recipes/ "Fritters"

Image ID: The New York Public Library, Digital Gallery # 184827.

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