Ingredients
CONTENTS
Preface
Introduction
A
Artichokes alla Barigoul'
Artichokes (maigre)
Artichokes Farci
Artichokes 'al Forno
Artichokes alla Francese
Artichokes fritti.' No. 1
Artichokes No. 2
Artichokes alla Graticola
Artichokes alla italiana
Artichokes alla Lionese
Artichokes alla Milanese
Artichokes alla Spagnuola
Artichokes al Vapore
Asparagus alla Borghese
Asparagus alla Casalinga
Asparagus, cold
Asparagus, alla Crema
Asparagus, fritto
Asparagus, al Gamberi
Asparagus alla in Istufato'
Asparagus, tips ? alla Italiana
Asparagus, alla Olandcsc'
Asparagus, 'alla Parmigiana
Asparagus, 'Perlate'
Asparagus, tips alla Suprema
Asparagus, on toast No. 1
Asparagus, No. 2
Asparagus, 'al Wilhelroina'
B
***Beans (Broad) 'al Burro
***Beans alla Romana
***Beans 'alla Turca
***Beans 'al Vino' .
***Beans (French) 'al Burro' .
***Beans alla Crema No. 1
***Beans alla Crema No. 2
***Beans all Zabajone
***Beans (Haricots) alla Bruna
***Beans, Croquettes of
***Beans, alla Florentina
***Beans, alla Maitre d'Hotel
***Beans, alla Milanese
***Beans, alla Polenta
Beans, Puree
***Beans, alla Bretonne
***Beans, alla Romana
***Beans, sauted
Beans, (Lima) alla Crema
Beans, (Dwarf Lima) alla Portugese
***Beans, (Scarlet Runners) alla Panna
Beet leaves, boiled
Beet leaves, Gnocchi
Beetroot (How to boil)
Beetroot alla Panna
Beetroot and Potatoes
Broccoli alla Crema
Broccoli alla Parmigiana
Broccoli with White Sauce
Brussels Sprouts alla Crema
Brussels al Limone
Brussels sautes
C
Cabbage (How to boil) 29
Cabbage farcito alla Americana
Cabbage alla Crema
Cabbage al Forno
Cabbage Fritto
Cabbage all' Uovo
Cabbage Pasticciato
Cabbage in Stufato
Cabbage (Red) alla Fiamminga
Cabbage alla Tedesca
Capsicums Farciti No. 1
Capsicums No. 2
Capsicums al Forno
Cardoons al Bianco
Cardoons alla Milanese
Carrots alla Accto
Carrots alla Bechamel
Carrots alla Casalinga
Carrots alla Panna
Carrots Sautees
Carrots in Stufato
Carrots alla Zucchero
Cauliflower al Borghese
Cauliflower al Burro
Cauliflower alla Crema
Cauliflower 'al Forno
Cauliflower al Fritto
Cauliflower al Gratin
Cauliflower alla Piemontese
Cauliflower in Stufato
Celery alla Crema
Celery al Fritto
Celery all Italiana
Celery alla Parmigiana
Celery al Pomidoro
Celery stewed
Cucumbers alla Bechamel
Cucumbers alla Comasca
Cucumbers alla Crema
Cucumbers Farciti
Cucumbers in stufato
Cucumbers alla Panna
Cucumbers alla Spagnuola
Cucumbers alla Toscana
Cucumbers alla Uova
E
***Egg-Plant (Aubergine) Farcite
***Egg-Plant (Aubergine) al Forno
***Egg-Plant (Aubergine) Fritto
***Egg-Plant (Aubergine) alla Griglia
***Egg-Plant (Aubergine) Saute
F
Flan of Celery
Flan of Potatoes
Flan of Vegetables
Flan of Fritto Misto
Flan of Vegetables
Flan of Jerusalem Artichokes al Bianco
Flan of Jerusalem Artichokes in Puree
L
Leeks alla Casalinga
Leeks al Forno
Leeks alla Salza Bianca
***Lentils alla Corona
***Lentils in stufato
***Lentils alla Provenzale
***Lentils Puree
***Lentils al Riso
Lettuce Farcite
Lettuce al Forno
Lettuce alla Spagnuola
MACCARONI AND OTHER PASTAS
Maccaroni alla Bechamel
Maccaroni alla Crema
Maccaroni al Fomo No. 1
Maccaroni al Fomo No. 2
Maccaroni al Fomo No. 3
Maccaroni au Gratin
Maccaroni alla Italiana
Maccaroni al Latte
Maccaroni alla Napolitana
Maccaroni alla Quaresima
Maccaroni alia Semplice
Maccaroni alla Siciliana
Maccaroni Timbale alla Milanese
Maccaroni Timbale alla Napoliti
OTHER PASTAS
***Agnelotti alla Poggio
Agnelotti alla Gherardo
*** Agnelotti alla crescioni
***Gnocchi alla Romana
***Gnocchi of Semolina
Pappardelle with Hare
Spaghetti con Acciughe
Spaghetti al Forno
***Spaghetti alla Italiana
***Spaghetti alla Napolitana
Spaghetti Timbaletti
Tagliarini al Formaggio
Tagliatelle with Ham
Tagliatelle alla Romagnola
Tagliatelle with Sausages
Tortelli
M
Macedoine of Vegetables
Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) al Burro
Mushrooms (Porcini) alla Casalinga
Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) alla Crema
Mushrooms (Porcini) alla Francese
Mushrooms Fried. No. 1
Mushrooms No. 2
Mushrooms Grilled
Mushrooms all' Intingolo .
Mushrooms (Prugnuoli) alla Spagnuola
Mushrooms (Dormienti) al Sugo
Mushrooms (Pratajuoli) on Toast
Mushrooms (Porcini) with Tomato Sauce
Mushrooms (Ovoli)
Mushrooms Trippati
O
Onions, Farcite
Onions, Fried
Onions, Glace
Onions, Small White
Onions, in Stufato
P
Parsnips alla Crema
Parnsips al Forno
Parnsips Fritte
Parnsips Sautes
Peas alla Antlca
Peas alla Borghese
Peas al Burro
Peas alla Consomme
Peas alla Crema
Peas alla Francese No. 1
Peas al Buon Gusto
Peas al Inglese
Pea Omelette
Peas pudding
Peas in their Pods
Peas allo Stufato
Peas allo Zucchero
***Polenta alla Parmigiana
***Polenta with Sausages
Potatoes boiled
Potatoes alla Borghese
Potatoes alla Campagnuola
Potatoes in Casseruola
Potatoes alla Crema
Potatoes Croquettes No. 1
Potatoes Croquettes No. 2
Potatoes Farcite
Potatoes al Forno No. 1
Potatoes al Forno No. 2
Potatoes in Frittata (Omelette)
Potatoes alla Semplicita
Potatoes Fritti alia Francese
Potatoes in Frittura
Potato in Gnocchi
Potatoes alla Italiana
Potatoes alla Gran Duchessa
Potatoes alla Lionese
Potatoes alla Maitre d Hotel
Potatoes alla Olandese
Potatoes alla Panna
Potato Pudding
Potato with Mushrooms
Potatoes in Ragout
Potatoes Arrostite (Roasted)
Potatoes Sautees
Potatoes in Stufato
Potatoes Tatufate
Potatoes air Umido
***Pumpkins alla Fiorentina
***Pumpkins Fritti
***Pumpkin Pudding
***Pumpkins Ripiene No. 1
***Pumpkins (Maigre). No. 2
R
Rice (How to Cook)
Rice alla Casalinga
Rice Croquettes
Rice with Tomatoes. No. 1
Rice with No. 2
Rice with Prawns
Rice with Quails
Rice alla Ristori
Risotto alla Milanese No. 1
Risotta alla Milanese No. 2
Risotta with Peas
Risotta alla Poggio Gherardo * .
S
SALADS
Artichoke Salad
Beetroot Salad
Broccoli Salad
Cabbage Salad
Cabbage alla Cardinale
Cauliflower Salad
Celery Salad
Cucumber and Tomato Salad
Cucumber alla Egiziana Salad
French Beans Salad
French Beans alla Italiana Salad
Lettuce Salad
Lettuce alla Francese
Lettuce with Veal (or Fish)
Lettuce alla Macedoine Salad
Lettuce alla Pollastra Salad
Potato Salad. No. 1
Potato Salad No. 2
Potato Salad No. 3
Potato Salad No. 4
Potato Salad alla Russa Salad
Spanish Onion Salad
Summer Salad No. 1
Summer Salad No. 2
Tomato Salad. No. 1
Tomato Salad No. 2
Tomato Salad No. 3
Tomato Salad No. 4
Tomato Salad No. 5
Jelly Salad
Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of )
Watercress Salad
SAUCES
Bechamel Sauce. No. 1
Bechamel No. 2
Bechamel No. 3 .
Bechamel (Maigre) No. 4
Caper Sauce
Caper Sauce alla Genovese
Caper Sauce alla Milanese
Caper Sauce(Cold)
Butter Sauce. No. 1,
Butter No. 2 (Melted Butter)
Lombarda Sauce
Lombarda alla Monte Bianco
Lombarda alla Ravigote
Olandese Sauce
Olandese Alla Panna Sauce
Suprema Sauce No. 1
Suprema No. 2
Tartara Sauce No.1
Tartara No. 2
***Tomato Sauce No. 1
***Tomato No. 2
Ve lutata Sauce
Sorrel Puree
Sorrel{Meagre)
Sorrel Stewed
SOUPS
Artichoke Soup
Artichoke (Puree)
Asparagus Soup
Carrot Soup
***Chestnut Soup
***Lentil Soup. No. 1
***Lentil No. 2
***Lettuce Soup
***Potato Soup alla Provinciale
Potato alla Romana
***Pumpkin Soup. No. 1
***Pumpkin No. 2
Onion Soup No. 1
***Palestine Soup
Puree alla Soubise No. 1
Puree alla Soubise No. 2
***Pea Soup
Polentina alia Veneziana
Sorrel Soup
Spinach Soup alla Modenese
Tomato Soup No. 1
Tomato Soupe {Meagre) No. 2
Turnip Soup
Vegetable Soup (Mixed)
Vegetable and Cream Soup
Spinach al Burro
Spinach alla Crema
Spinach Croquettes
Spinach Ravioli alla Fiorentina
Spinach Fried
Spinach Pudding with Mushrooms
Spinach in Riccioli
Souffle
T
Tomatoes Broiled
Tomatoes in Conchiglia
Tomatoes al Forno No. 1
Tomatoes al Forno No. 2
Tomatoes al Forno No. 3
Tomatoes 'Fritti'
Tomatoes alla Gratlcola
Tomatoes Iced
Tomatoes al Indiana
Tomatoes al Pane
Tomato Pudding
Tomatoes in Puree
Tomatoes Ripieni
Tomatoes al Riso
Tomatoes Stewed
Tomatoes in Umido
Tomatoes con Uova
Truffles in Champagne
Truffles and Cheese
Truffles Maigre
Truffles in Omelette
Truffles alla Panna
Truffles Sautes
Truffles Stewed
Truffles sul tovagliolo
*** The recipes marked with Astrix are currently available on this website, "www.italyrevisited.org," the remainder will soon be added.
Directions
Notes
"Leaves from our Tuscan Kitchen or How to Cook Vegetables" by Ann Janet Ross was published by JM Dent & Co. in 1900 in London, England. For the entire cookbook see www.archive.org. Currently, only those recipes marked in the table of contents with an Astrix*** are included on this website, www.italyrevisited.org, but soon all of Ross's "Leaves from our Tuscan Kitchen" will be available................... BIOGRAPHY: "Janet Ross (1842?1927) was a travel writer, Tuscan cookbook author, writer on Tuscany, and memoirist. She was the granddaughter of Sarah Austin, a famous translator, and the daughter of Lucie, Lady Duff-Gordon, who wrote the classic Letters from Egypt. Janet Ann Duff Gordon grew up in a highly cultured atmosphere among England's leading intellectual and literary figures. In 1860 she married Henry Ross, who was age 40 to her age 18. In 1867 the Egyptian banking system underwent a crisis that diminished Henry Ross's investments and destroyed his banking career in Egypt. Henry and Janet moved to Italy, leaving their only child, a son Alick, in England. They acquired a villa near Florence. Janet Ross was a capable businesswoman who managed the estate well and sold its produce at an adequate profit. She was also an occasional dealer in art and a constant entertainer of famous visitors. She wrote for magazines such as Fraser's, Macmillan's, and Longman's. Her publishers encouraged her to select and publish some of her previous writings as Italian Sketches, which became a big success. She followed that book with her memoir Three Generations of English Women, which dealt with her grandmother and mother, as well as her great-grandmother, Susannah Cook Taylor. Janet Ross wrote the classic cookbook Leaves from Our Tuscan Kitchen, or, How to Cook Vegetables, which is a collection of recipes supplied by the Rosses' chef, Guiseppi Volpi, at their villa Poggio Gherardo. She also wrote Florentine Villas (1901) and other books related to Florence and Tuscany. In 1902 Henry Ross died. In 1912 Janet Ross published her autobiographical memoir The Fourth Generation. She died from cancer in 1927. The Rosses' Florentine villa was left to her niece Lina Waterfield and was destroyed in World War II." Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janet_Ross.........................." In the book's introduction the author writes: "The innate love of change in man is visible even in the kitchen. Not so very long ago soup was an exception in English houses ? almost a luxury. A dish of vegetables ? as a dish and not an adjunct to meat ? was a still greater rarity; and even now plain -boiled potatoes, peas, cabbages, etc., are the rule. When we read of the dishes, fearfully and wonderfully made, in the old Italian novelle, we wonder whence the present Italians got their love of vegetables and maccaroni. Sacchetti tells us that in the fourteenth century a baked goose, stuffed with garlic and quinces, was considered an exquisite dish; and when the gonfalonier of Florence gave a supper to a famous doctor, he put before him the stomach of a calf, boiled partridges, and pickled sardines. Giahfigliazzi's cook sent up a roasted crane to his master as a delicacy, says Boccaccio; and a dish of leeks cooked with spices appears as a special dish in the rules of the chapter of San Lorenzo when the canons messed together. Old Laschi, author of that delightful book Usservatore Fiorentino, moralises on the ancient fashion of cooking in his pleasant rather prosy way: 4 It would not seem that the senses should be subjected to fashion; and yet such is the case. The perfumes, once so pleasing, musk, amber, and benzoin, now excite convulsions; sweet wines, such as Pisciancio, Verdea, Montalcino, and others mentioned by Redi in his dithyrambic, are now despised; and instead of the heavy dishes of olden times, light and elegant ones are in vogue. Whoever characterised man as a laughing animal ought rather to have called him a variable and inconstant one. The dinner which set all Siena laughing for days, given to a favourite of Pius u. by a Sienese who substituted wild geese for pea-cocks, after cutting off their beaks and feet, and coloured his jelly with poisonous ingredients, forms the subject of one of Pulci's tales: ? Meanwhile it was ordered that hands should be washed, and Messer Goro was seated at the head of the table, and then other courtiers who had accompanied him \ and they ate many tarts of good almond paste as a beginning. Then was brought to Messer Goro the dish on which were the peacocks without beaks, and a fellow was told to carve them. He not being used to such office gave himself vast trouble to pluck
them, 1 but did it with so little grace that he filled the room and all the table with feathers, and the eyes, the mouth, the nose, and the ears of Messer Goro, and of them all. They, perceiving that it was from want of knowledge,
held their peace, and took a mouthful here and there of other dishes so as not to disturb the order of the feast. But they were always swallowing dry feathers. Falcons and hawks would have been convenient that evening. When this pest had been removed many other roasts were brought, but all most highly seasoned with cumin. Everything would how-
ever have been pardoned if at the last an error had not been committed, which out of sheer folly nearly cost Messer Goro and those 1 Peacocks were skinned, not plucked, before cooking, and the skin with the feathers was put on to the roasted bird, and the tail opened out before placing the dish on the table. The 'fellow' ought to have cut the stitches and drawn off the skin, instead of plucking the feathers.... with him their lives. Now you must know
that the master of the house and his councillors, in order to do honour to his guest, had ordered a dish of jelly. They wanted, as is the fashion in Florence and elsewhere, to have the arms of the Pope and of Messer Goro with
many ornaments on it ; so they used orpiment, white and red lead, verdigris and other horrors, and set this before Messer Goro as a choice and new thing. And Messer Goro and his companions ate willingly of it to take the bitter taste of the cumin and the other strange dishes out of their mouths, thinking, as is the custom in every decent place, that they were all coloured with saffron, milk of sweet almonds, the juices of herbs, and such like. And in the night it was just touch and go that some of them did not stretch out their legs. Messer Goro especially suffered much anguish from both head and stomach. . . .' A company of Lombard pastrycooks came to Tuscany in the sixteenth century, and introduced fine pastry into Florence. We find the first mention of it in Berni's Orlando Innamorato
where it is mentioned among the choice viands... Laschi says, (tbe epoch of Charles v. is the greatest of modern times, for the culture of the spirit induced the culture of the body.' But he does not mention vegetables or herbs at
all. For them we must go back to the ancients. Bitterly did the Israelites, when wandering in the desert, regret ? the cucumbers and the melons we did eat in Egypt 9; though old Gerarde says, c they yield to the body a cold and moist nourishment, and that very little, and the same not good/ Gerarde is however hard to please, for he says of egg-plants, under the old English name of Raging or Mad Apples, (doubtless these apples have a mischievous
qualitie, the use whereof is utterly to be forsaken. Fennel, dedicated to St. John, was believed to make the lean fat and to give the weak strength, while the root pounded with honey was considered a remedy against the bites of mad dogs. If lettuce be eaten after dinner it
cures drunkenness; but Pope says: ? If your wish be rest,
Lettuce and cowslip wine, probation est. Sorrel is under the influence of Venus, and Gerarde declares that also 'the carrot serveth for love matters; and Orpheus, as Pliny
writeth, said that the use hereof winneth love/ Flowers of rosemary, rue, sage, marjoram, fennel, and quince preserve youth; worn over the heart they give gaiety. Rosemary is an herb of the sun, while Venus first raised sweet marjoram, therefore young married couples are crowned with it in Greece. While * He that eats sage in May Shall live for aye.' Sweet basil is often worn by the Italian maidens in their bosoms, as it is supposed to engender sympathy, and borage makes men merry and joyful. For years English friends have begged recipes for cooking vegetables in the Italian fashion, so I have written down many of the following from the dictation of our good Giuseppe Volpi, whose portrait, by Mr. A. H. Hallam Murray, adorns this little book, and who has been known to our friends for over thirty years. I must also acknowledge, with thanks, for interesting information about plants see Plant Lore, Legends, and Lyrics, by R. Folkard, Jun. Sampson Low, Marston, Searle and Rivington, London, 1884. Courtesy of Sigri. Fratelli Ingegnoli of Milan, who have permitted me to use and translate what I needed from their excellent little book "Come si Cucinano i Legumu" Janet Ross. Poggio Gherardo Florence."
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