Ingredients
CONTENTS
Prologue i
The First Day 16
The Second Day 21
The Third Day 28
The Fourth Day 35
The Fifth Day 42
The Sixth Day 49
The Seventh Day 56
The Eighth Day 61
The Ninth Day 71
The Tenth Day 78
SAUCES
NO. 1. Espagnole or Brown Sauce ....
2. Velute Sauce . .
3. Bechamel Sauce .
4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking) 98
5. Genoese Sauce
6. Italian Sauce . .
7. Ham Sauce (Salsa di Prosciutto) . . .
8. Tarragon Sauce . . .
***9. Tomato Sauce ....
***10. Tomato Sauce Piquante
1 1. Mushroom Sauce . . .
***12. Neapolitan Sauce . . .
13. Neapolitan Anchovy
14. Roman Sauce (Salsa agro-dolce) ....
15. Roman Sauce (another
16. Supreme Sauce . . .
17. Pasta Marinata (for masking Italian Frys)
18. White Villeroy ...
SOUPS
Clear Soup 103
Zuppa Primaverile
(Spring Soup) ... 103
Soup alla Lombard . . 103
Tuscan Soup .... 104
Venetian Soup . . . 104.
***Roman Soup .... 104
Soup alla Nazionale . . 104
Soup alla Modanese . . 105
Crotopo Soup .... 105
Soup alla Imperatrice . ioj
Neapolitan Soup . . . 105
Soup with Risotto . . 106
Soup alla Canavese . . 106
***Soup alla Maria Pia . . 106
***Zuppa d'Erbe (Lettuce Soup) 107
***Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup)
MlNESTRE
35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre. . . 108
36. Minestra alla Casalinga . 108
37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips 108
38. Minestra alla Capucina . 109
39. Minestra of Semolina . 109
***Minestrone alla Milanese
Minestra of Rice and
Cabbage no Minestra of Rice and Celery
FISH
43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels) in
44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of
Fish)
45. Astachi all' Italiana (Lobster)
46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod) 112
47. Triglie alla Marmara (Mullet)
48. Mullet alla Tolosa . .
49. Mullet alla Triestina
50. Whiting alla Genovese .
51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod)
52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod) ......
53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock) .'
54. Naselh con Piselli (Whittag) ......
55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters)
56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters)
57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters)
58. Pesci diversi alia Casalinga (Fish) ....
59. Pesce alia Genovese (Sole or Turbot) . .
60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole)
61. Sogliole al tegame(Sole)
62. Sogliole alia Livornese (Sole)
63. Sogliole alia Veneziana (Sole)
64. Sogliole alia Parmigiana (Sole)
65. Salmone alia Genovese (Salmon)
66. Salmone alia Perigo (Salmon)
67. Salmone alia giardiniera (Salmon)
68. Salmone alia Famese (Salmon) . . . .
69. Salmone alia Santa Fiorentina (Salmon) . .
70. Salmone alia Francesca (Salmon)
[Meats]
71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte Beef, Mutton, Vbal, Lamb, &c.
***72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef ) . . . 12*
***73. Stufato alla Fiorentina (Stewed Beef) ... 121
***74. Coscia d i Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak) ... 122
***75. Polpettine alia Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives) . 122
***76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef) . . , 12a
***77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef) . . 122
78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of
Beef) 123
79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef) .... 123
****80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef
with Pistacchios) . . 123
81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto) . . . 124
82. Tenerumi alia Piemontese (Tendons of Veal) 124
83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets) ... 124
***84. Costolette alla Monza (Veal Cutlets) ... 125
***85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal) . . 125
***86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal) . 125
***87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives) 126
***88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal) 126
***89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton
Cutlets) 126
***90. Petto di Castrato all' Italiana (Breast of Mutton) 127
91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton) .... 127
***92. Tenerumi d' Agnello alia Villeroy (Tendons of
Lamb) 127
93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of
Lamb) 127
***94. Costolette d'Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cut-
lets) ...... 128
Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &c.
***95. Timballo alla Romana . 129
***96. Timballo alla Lombarda 129
***97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue) 130
98. Lingua di Manzo ai Citriuoli (Tongue with
Cucumber) ....
99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's
Tongues) 130
100. Lingue di Vitello all' Italiana (Calves' Ton-
gues) ......
***101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig) .
***102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig)
103. Ateletti alla Sarda . .
104. Ateletti alla Genovese .
105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head)
***106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's Head)
***107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head)
***108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's
Head)
***109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head) . .
no. Zampetti (Calves' Feet) in. Bodini Marinati . . .
112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread) .
113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread) . . .
114. Animelle all' Italiana (Sweetbread) . . .
115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread) . . . 137
116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbread
and Mushrooms) . . 137
117. Cervello in Filiserbe (Calf's Brains) . . . 13S
118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf s Brains) ... 138
119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains) ... 138
120. Frittura of Liver and Brains 138
121. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains) . 138
122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains) 139
123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread) 139
124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry) 139
125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy 140
126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese 140
***127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers) 141
128. Minuta alia Visconti (Chickens' Livers) . 141
129. Croutons alla Principesca 141
130. Croutons alla Romana . 142
Fowl, Dock, Game, Hare,
Rabbit, &c.
131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffte) ... 143
***132. Polio alla Fiorentina (Chicken) .... 143
***133. Polio all' Oliva(Chicken) 144
***134. Polio alla Villereccia (Chicken) .... 144
***135. Polio alla Cacciatora (Chicken) .... 144
***136. Polio astro alia Lorenese
I (Fowl) 144
***137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl) ... 145
***138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braised
Fowl) 145
139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice) . 145
***140. Dindo Arrosto alia
Milanese (Roast Turkey) 145
***141. Tacchinotto all' Istriona (Turkey Poult) ... 146
142. Fagiano alia Napoletana (Pheasant) .... 146
143. Fagiano alia Perigo (Pheasant) .... 146
144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck) 147
145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges) .... 147
146. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe) . . . 148
147. Piccioni alla minuta (Pigeons) . . . _ . . 149
148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons) . . 149
149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare) 149
150. Lepre Agrodolce (Hare) 150
151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit) 150
152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast
Rabbit) 150
153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit) . . . 151
VEGETABLES
154. Asparagi alia salsa Suprema (Asparagus) . . 152
155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels
Sprouts) 152
156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot) . . 152
157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans) 153
158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage) . . . . 153
159. Cavoli fiori alla Lionese (Cauliflower) . . . 153
160. Cavoli fiori fritti (Cauliflower) 153
161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana 153
162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni . . 154
163. Sedani alia Parmigiana (Celery) 154
164. Sedani fritti all' italiana (Celery) . . . . . 154
165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana
(Cucumber) . . . . 154
166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber) .... 155
167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots) 155
168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and Peas) . 155
169. Verze alla Certosina (Cabbage) . . . . 155
170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce) 156
171. Lattughe farcite alia
Genovese (Lettuce) . 156
172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms) . 156
173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables) . 157
174. Patate alia crema (Potatoes in cream) . . . 157
175. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes) 157
176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato
Sauce) 157
177. Spinaci alia Milanese (Spinach) 158
178. Insalatadi patate (Potato, salad) ...... 158
179. Insalata alia Navarino (Salad) 158
180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad) . . 159
181. Tartufi alia Dino (Truffles) 159
MACARONI, RICE, POLENTA and other ITALIAN PASTAS
182. Macaroni with Tomatoes 160
183. Macaroni alla Casalinga 160
184. Macaroni al Sughillo . 160
185. Macaroni alla Livornese 161
186. Tagliarelle and Lobster
***187. Polenta
***188. Polenta Pasticciata .
***189. Battuffoli ....
190. Risotto all' Italiana .
191. Risotto alla Genovese
192. Risotto alla Spagnuola
193. Risotto alla Capuccina
194. Risotto alia Parigina
***195. Ravioli
***196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina
***197. Gnocchi alla Romana
**198. Gnocchi alla Lombarda
199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake)
OMELETTES and other EGG DISHES
200. Uova ai Tartufi with Truffles)
Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes) . .
Uova ripiene (Canape:
of Egg) ....
Uova alia Fiorentina (Eggs) . .
Uova in fili (Egg Canapes) . . .
Frittata di funghi (Mush room Omelette)
Frittata cofi Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette)
Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette)
Frittata con erbe (Omelette with Herbs)
Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle) .
210. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette)
SWEETS and CAKES
211. Bodino of Semolina . . 171
***212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream) 171 [Puddings & Creams]
***Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream) 172 [Puddings & Creams]
***Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat) . . 172 [Nougats]
Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream) 172
***Cremona Cake . . . 173 [Cakes]
***Cake alla Tolentina . . 173 [Cakes]
***218. Riso all' Imperatrice [Puddings & Creams]
***219. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes) . . [Cookies with Nuts]
***220. Cakes alia Livornese [Cakes]
***221. Genoese Pastry . . [Pastries]
***222. Zabajone .... [Puddings & Creams]
223. Iced Zabajone. . .
***224. Pan-forte di Siena/Sienese Hardbake (see Italy Revisited/Nougats)
*** The recipes marked with Astrix are currently available on this website, "www.italyrevisited.org," the remainder will soon be added.
Directions
Notes
"The Cook's Decameron: a Study in Taste, containing over two hundred recipes for Italian dishes," by Mrs. W.G. Waters was published by William Heineman in 1920. For the entire cookbook see www.archive.org. Currently, only those recipes marked in the index with an Astrix*** are included on this website, www.italyrevisited.org, but soon all of Water's recipes will be available........In the preface to "The Cook's Decameron," Mrs. Waters states: "Montaigne in one of his essays mentions the high excellence Italian cookery had attained in his day.[Quote]// "I have entered into this Discourse upon the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd into my Service, and who was Clerk of the Kitchen to the late Cardinal Caraffa till his Death. I put this Fellow upon an Account of his office: Where he fell to Discourse of this Palate-Science, with such a settled Countenance and Magisterial Gravity, as if he had been handling some profound Point of Divinity. He made a Learned Distinction of the several sorts of Appetites, of that of a Man before he begins to eat, and of those after the second and third Service: The Means simply to satisfy the first, and then to raise and acuate the other two: The ordering of the Sauces, first in general, and then proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients, and their Effects: The Differences of Sallets, according to their seasons, which ought to be serv'd up hot, and which cold: The Manner of their Garnishment and Decoration, to render them yet more acceptable to the Eye? after which he 'entered upon the Order of the whole Service, full of weighty and important Considerations."//[End of quote] It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded habit thus to applaud the gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be a Frenchman. It is a canon of belief with the modern English-man that the French alone can achieve excellence in the art of cookery, and when once a notion of this sort shall have found a lodgment in an Englishman's brain, the task of removing it will be a hard one. Not for a moment is it suggested that Englishmen or any one else should cease to recognize the sovereign merits of French cookery; all that is entreated is toleration, and perchance approval, of cookery of other schools. But the favourable consideration of any plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of Englishmen when they go abroad find no other school of cookery by the testing of which they may form a comparison, This universal prevalence of French cookery may be held to be a proof of its supreme excellence ? that it is first, and the rest nowhere ; but the victory is not so complete as it seems, and the facts would bring grief and humiliation rather than patriotic pride to the heart of a Frenchman like Brillat Savarin. For the cookery we meet in the hotels of the great European cities, though it may be based on French traditions, is not the genuine thing, but' a bastard, cosmopolitan growth, the same every-where, and generally vapid and uninteresting. French cookery of the grand school suffers by being associated with such commonplace achievements. It is noted in the following pages how rarely English people on their travels penetrate where true Italian cookery may be tasted, wherefore it has seemed worth while to place within the reach of English housewives some Italian recipes which are especially fitted for the presentation of English fare to English palates under a different and not unappetizing guise. Most of them will be found simple and inexpensive, and special care has been taken to include those recipes which enable the less esteemed portions of meat and the cheaper vegetables and fish to be treated more elaborately than they have hitherto been treated by English cooks. The author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for certain suggestions and recommendations made in the revision of the introduction, and for his courage in dining, "greatly daring," off many of the dishes. He still lives and thrives. Also to Mrs. Mitchell, her cook,
for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown in
the work, for her valuable advice, and for the care
taken in testing the recipes." |
