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Ingredients For taralli dough
Directions o Preheat oven to 500 degrees F.
Notes According to Mrs. Rosina Melfi, a first generation Italian-Canadian who grew up in Casacalenda in the 1930s, this style of sweet taralli was considered a second-rate version of "biscotti dolci" as the taralli (unlike "biscotti dolci") did not require much kneading. Apparently, in the 1930s "biscotti dolci and "taralli dolci" were not one and the same recipe. Back then "biscotti dolci" took time and effort to make and so were only made for special occasions, while "taralli dolci" were made any old time [For more information on this see Italy Revisited/Taralli, "Biscotti con Sale, Version I]. Apparently, in the 1930s "taralli dolci" were made in a round donut-like shape, while "biscotti dolci" were made in the shape of half-bows. The shape of the treat would indicate whether or not they were plain old taralli or they were the beloved "biscotti dolci." Nowadays most North Americans (and I suspect Italians as well) don't make any distinctions between "biscotti dolci" and "taralli dolci." It seems the recipe name, "biscotti dolci" is no longer in use. Nonetheless, prior to World War II the term "biscotti dolci" was very much in use.... It's interesting to note that the word, "taralli," in Molisani dialect not only refers to the Italian snack food North Americans that have come to love, the word also refers to young men who may think themselves hot, but are, in fact, not hot at all. Apparently, in the 1930s young women would also refer to such men as "taralli that had been soaked in honey" -- an obvious put down as taralli are never soaked in honey.... According to my aunt, Zia Rosina, the word, taralli, may have come to have been used in this derogatory fashion, because back in the 1930s taralli (as previously noted) were low in the food hierarchy. Apparently, when someone baked something and it didn't come out right the townspeople would say, "it looks like a taralli" -- meaning, it doesn't look like much. In a nut shell, taralli were considered second-rate "biscotti con sale" and/or "biscotti dolci...." In any case, the original Molisani-style "sweet taralli" are very different from what most North Americans have come to expect of this snack food. First of all, they are not very sweet, and second of all, they're not crunchy. They taste more like a "holiday bread" than "taralli." The taralli that are currently available in North American grocery shops are more like those that were made (and still are made) in Campania and/or Puglia, rather than what were made (and possibly still are made) in Molise. That said, these Molisani-style sweet taralli may be different from the norm, but they're still very pleasant to eat. Those who don't like their sweet taralli to be "too" dry or "too" sweet might actually prefer this style of taralli dolci to the more famous ones from Bari and its surrounding area.... Photo: Mary Melfi. |