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Ingredients For pastry dough
Directions For pastry dough
Notes The recipe in this entry was adapted from Ada Boni's "Italian Regional Cooking" (New York, Dutton: 1969). The book was originally published in Italian and became an instant classic. It is one of the few cookbooks published prior to 1970 that makes specific reference to Molisani cookery. The reason for this is simple -- Molise was part of Abruzzo; it did not become an independent region until 1963. As Molise is the smallest region in Italy, with a population less than half a million, very few food writers paid it much attention. That's changing, of course, as more and more individuals interested in the culinary arts seek out the traditions of various parts of Italy, including the least known ones. In any case, the recipe in Ada Boni's wonderful cookbook sounds very authentic. Perhaps a bit too authentic in the sense that it uses very little honey (4 teaspoons). Prior to World War II sugar and honey was very expensive so home cooks didn't use much of it. Ada Boni's recipe doesn't use very much either, I increased the amounts. Growing up in the 1960s members of my family, which are from Molise, all made similar calciuni and they used more honey, as well as adding sugar -- but, this might have been because the members of my family all came to Canada, and here the sweet stuff was a lot cheaper. In Ada Boni's original recipe bitter chocolate is used rather than semi-sweet chocolate. If one does this, one will get a fritter that is savory rather than sweet. This might suit some people's taste, but not all. Also, no one I know adds rum or candied citron to this fritter but maybe that's because all those I know were born in the Molise countryside rather than in Molise's capital city, Campobasso. It's possible that those who originated from this urban center had access to rum and candied citron, so might have used it and may still be using it. Most recipes have many variations and this one is no exception..... Personal comments and photo: Mary Melfi. |